This article was originally published in issue 88 of Cyclist magazine
In the Swiss Alps is an event that takes riders back to an age of wool and steel. Cyclist waxes its moustache…
Words Joseph Robinson Photography Geoff Waugh
I am waiting at the start line of the Bergkönig Vintage sportive. To my left is Biagio Signarello. He is in full 1940s Legnano kit, and not replica stuff, either. It’s all original gear – the moth holes give that away. He is also on a matching bike, its maroon bar tape complementing his jersey sleeves perfectly.
He looks to be running 19mm tubs and has seven gears at a push. His shoes look like they belong in a museum and when Cyclist’s photographer asks him to pose for a photo, he immediately goes for that classic racing position they all did back in the day. Hunched in the drops, grin from ear to ear.
To my right, meanwhile, is Thomas Schott, who looks like he has actually been beamed here directly from the past. He insists I call him Thomas, not Tom. He is in a short-sleeve roll neck jersey with red, white and blue hoops, a set of aviation goggles and has a spare tubular tyre wrapped around his shoulders.
His bike is too weathered for me to be able to determine the brand. What I can confirm is that it only has one gear and that he has strapped a frame pump to the seat tube.
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His two tin bottles are attached to his handlebars, and I’m convinced they are filled with brandy or maybe some wine. Wherever I look, everything seems genuinely vintage, with both riders and kit echoing a bygone age. The only blot on this sepia-tinted landscape, it seems, is me.
For starters, nearly every bike I spy is at least five years older than me (I was born in 1994). I’m also aware that my own bike isn’t actually ‘legal’ for this ride as the Dura-Ace groupset attached to my borrowed Columbus frame is from 1991, not pre-1989 as stipulated in the rules. I’m also riding 23mm clinchers, not tubs.
To at least look the part, I have invested in a fetching Guerra Ursus replica jersey of the kind worn by Hugo Koblet, the original Swiss ‘pédaleur de charme’ from the 1950s.
However, now I’m worried that, far from being impressed, the locals will instead be offended that this British upstart has the impertinence to wear the colours of their national hero.
Waiting for the gun that will signal the start of the 107km loop around the Swiss Alps, I cannot help but feel a little fraudulent in my appearance. As yet, I haven’t earned my stripes.
Chasing the sun
On the morning of the event, Gstaad is silent as I climb out of bed and ready myself for the day ahead. I’ve been lucky enough to snag myself a room in the Gstaad Palace Hotel, an official host of the Bergkönig Cycling Festival, so a good night’s sleep was never in doubt.
The hotel is grand and sits at the top of town, keeping watch over the expensive chalets and luxury watch shops below.
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Back in the 1960s, the likes of Richard Burton and Liz Taylor spent nights here and more recently the late Michael Jackson even tried to buy the hotel. Its owners politely declined.
The sun is out but the morning air is chilly. I’m standing about halfway back in the bunch, reluctant to be at the front with the TV cameras and former pro Urs Zimmermann.
Instead I hang back, waiting alongside Biagio, Thomas and my day’s riding partner, Richard Lofthouse. Richard is a finance journalist from London who helped get the word out regarding the inaugural Bergkönig event 12 months ago, running its social media accounts alongside organiser Alex Beeler.
Before we set off, Richard asks, ‘What’s your lowest gear?’ I reply, ‘39/28.’ As we start riding he again turns to me and laughs, ‘It’s gonna be a hard day.’ The comment does little to settle my nerves but fortunately the first 25km of the route is benign enough to ease us into the ride gently.
Leaving Gstaad we head west, immediately departing German-speaking Switzerland for French-speaking Switzerland and the Vaudois Alps. The road loses altitude as we sneak through the hamlets of Rougemont and Chateau-d’Oex, navigating the many cow farms that connect them.
The locals are still asleep, save for an all-seeing octogenarian train attendant who remains expressionless as he watches a mass of wool-clad cyclists sweep through the Swiss lanes.
The early pace is sedate enough for Richard and I to chat with other riders and compare the rust levels on bikes before we arrive at the base of the day’s first climb, Montée des Allières.
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The Allières passes calmly beneath a shroud of thick trees, with a gradient gentle enough for me to spend most of the climb quizzing a British expat about the benefits of working as a banker in Geneva. Unsurprisingly, there are many. The altitude gain takes us high enough to rise above a layer of low-lying cloud as the road deteriorates into gravel.
The loose surface would normally put me on edge considering the lack of tyre width, but I quickly become distracted by the sight of an eagle hovering above our heads. It’s stalking us as we climb, circling patiently, almost as if waiting for somebody to puncture so he can capture some lunch.
The airborne spectacle leads us over the summit of the climb and onto the shores of the glistening Lac de l’Hongrin. We pass the first feed station, which consists of some locally produced cheese and a cauldron of sweet tea, and glide through rich, green pastures flanked by Swiss mountains.
We’re beginning to enjoy ourselves now, taking in the views, growing into the ride, relaxing a little. Even upping our pace. What a mistake that will prove to be.
Fear and loathing
Riding the Arenberg, sitting my Chemistry GCSE and now climbing the Col de la Pierre du Moëllé – three events in my life that have been preceded by the same feeling.
I’m talking about the pitted sensation of fear in my stomach as the full realisation of the near-impossibility of my task is laid bare in front of me. As I turn a sharp 180 degrees, it hits me again.
The climb is a mere 3km in length – or 2.8% of my day’s riding – and it’s a stiff but not unmanageable 9% in gradient on average, but the stats don’t tell the full story.
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There is a nasty sting in its tail, a 30% sting that lasts for more than 50m, helping contribute to an average gradient of 13% for the final 1.3km. Did I mention that I weigh 90kg and my bike weighs 10kg? I certainly mentioned the lack of a really low gear.
Worst of all, I can see every bit of it lying ahead. It’s so steep it looks as if somebody has etched a snaking road onto a vertical wall. I can make out a long line of bodies scattered across its tarmac, walking to the summit.
I’m trying my best to enjoy the less steep first part, bobbing up and down out of the saddle like a makeshift Contador through the Alpine tree line.
This isn’t too bad. Maybe I’ve overestimated the severity of it all. Maybe I’m a better climber than I thought?
Wrong. Rounding a switchback I hit it, and it hits back harder. Really hard, like doing your kids’ maths homework-hard. I flop back down onto my saddle, searching desperately for a lower gear.
No chance, I was already in it and have been from the start. Pushing and pulling on the pedals, I crawl slowly around a shallow set of bends.
My legs are on fire and my lungs feel like they have been twisted inside out. Sweat is pouring down my brow into my eyes, making them sting.
Why am I doing this to myself? Why is this my pastime? This isn’t fun; it’s torture. I weave left and right, trying to trick the gradient like an imaginary paperboy. No luck. No tricks to be had here, just hard work.
Every time I lean forward my back wheel spins out of control. Every time I sit down gravity pulls my front wheel from the floor.
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To compromise, I’m forced into an uncomfortable squat just millimetres from the saddle in an attempt to spread the weight over both wheels. It’s hardly attractive but it does the job.
At the summit I dismount and stumble over to a fold-out table, snatching a handful of almond cake and a bottle of Vivi Kola (Swiss Coca-Cola).
Both go down my neck without touching the sides and I slump to the ground. I’m so drained that I can’t even appreciate the view of Mont Blanc in the distance. I just want to lie down.
Richard, on the other hand, is fine. Annoyingly, he made light work of that insidiously steep hill and, unlike me, he is enjoying the view, expounding on its beauty and taking photos of the cloud-brushed peak with his phone. I’m envious, but not for long.
He may have found the climb easier than me, but we’re equally unnerved by the descent. Just as steep, the road looks as if it disappears off the edge of a cliff – a daunting prospect for bikes with brakes that are far from perfect.
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Richard’s brakes look especially decrepit, and his bike is now nursing a buckled rear wheel. I take the lead and hurtle down the first section. It’s technical so I stop myself from gaining the speed gravity wants me to. My hands squeeze tightly on the bike’s unforgiving brake levers.
They are so sharp they dig into my fingers like heavy shopping bags, turning my fingertips cold through lack of blood.
I rattle over a cattle grid with a dunk, dunk, dunk that threatens to shake my bike to bits. And after the cattle grid come the cattle, who have decided they are going to mooch about in the road today, right in our path.
I can’t complain, as it’s their land we’re intruding on, but it makes for a twitchy moment or two as we approach, weaving between the heavy bovine masses. Luckily we scoot by unscathed and make it safely back to the valley floor with just one major test left.
3,000m high and rising
We’ve all done it. Eaten or drunk something out of politeness because we’re too scared to say, ‘No, thank you.’ Well, this is what I do at the base of today’s last big climb, the Col du Pillon.
The final feed zone is manned by a man in his fifties and his young son. The dad is busy tending to Richard’s back wheel while the son hands me a cup of broth. It looks likes Bovril, but thinner, and is wincingly salty.
I really don’t want it, but I don’t want to offend, so I take it and I drink it down, coughing as it scratches my throat. I smile and say, ‘Merci’. So he gives me a second cup, and I drink that one too.
The coating of salt in my mouth is far from what I need as I begin the ascent of the Pillon, but at least it takes my mind away from the punchy first kilometre of climbing out of town.
It’s not as steep as the climbing earlier in the day but fatigued legs are making this harder than it should be. It feels like I’m riding through treacle.
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The climb twists and turns as we leave the houses behind and weave our way through steep farmland. Not that I spend much time appreciating the countryside. For the next 45 minutes I stare mainly at my stem as I wish myself to the summit.
Thankfully, the grinding nature of the climb eventually dissipates, and I find the energy to look up and take in the scenery.
Around me are flowing green fields, and across the valley is the mottled whiteness of the glacier that sweeps down the flanks of Diablerets, the region’s highest mountain at 3,210m.
I’m told there is an airy suspension bridge that links the peaks of the Les Diablerets massif. That sounds like something for another day.
Right now all I care about is that the view of Les Diablerets means that the day’s climbing is done and all that remains is a relaxing 15km descent back to Gstaad.
Reaching the end, I see a smiling Biagio again. As we line up for some free raclette on toast, he taps me on the shoulder and says, ‘Chapeau.’ And with that, all my fraudulent fears melt away.
The details
Wind the clock back
What: Bergkönig Swiss Vintage Cycling Festival
Where: Gstaad, Switzerland
How far: 107km (Bergkönig), 85km (pedaleur de charme)
Next one: 8th September 2019
More info:bergkoenig-gstaad.comPrice: 159CH (£122)
The rider’s ride
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Wernli Sport Columbus SP
The bike I rode for the Bergkönig Vintage Cycling Festival was plucked from the collection of race organiser Alex Beeler, and the Wernli Sport Columbus SP is one of his favourites.
Wernli Sport was a local Swiss team in the 1980s and this bike was raced in the national championships. The team’s kits and bikes clearly took inspiration from the 7-Eleven team of the same era.
Made from Columbus steel tubing, the SP frame was specifically designed for heavier riders, with reinforced steel to prevent flex – something I was thankful for when chomping away at the day’s multiple double-digit gradients.
Beeler has retrospectively fitted an indexed Shimano Dura-Ace eight-speed groupset from 1991 and, generously, chosen 39/28 as the bike’s ‘easiest’ gear. It also had a set of 23mm clincher tyres to offer me an insurance policy if an untimely puncture struck.
To counteract the modern luxuries, Beeler moved the shifters from the bars down to the down tube for a more vintage feel. Technically, that didn’t meet Beeler’s own bike requirements for the event, but I’m eternally grateful he turned a blind eye.
Do it yourself
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Travel
Cyclist flew to Geneva Airport, which is serviced by numerous airlines. We then hopped on a local SBB train to Montreux before changing to catch the Golden Pass Panoramic light rail to Gstaad (goldenpass.ch). It’s slow but has large windows for unobstructed views of the Alps, a waiter service providing Swiss cheese and wine, and even a coat rack.
Accommodation
We stayed in the Gstaad Palace Hotel (palace.ch), which has an indoor swimming pool that turns into a nightclub on Fridays. Prices range from £500pn to a staggering £6,737. No wonder Lady Di and Prince Charles spent their winters here. A more affordable option is the bike-friendly Huus Hotel (huusgstaad.com). It’s 4.5km away from the town centre and starts at £265pn.
Bike
Bergkönig stipulates your bike be made before 1989 and at the least have shifters on the down tube, making this very much a BYOB event (bring your own bike).
Thanks
Many thanks to Richard Lofthouse, my fixer who pointed me in all the right directions, and to the Swiss Tourist Board (swiss.com) for supporting us with transfers and accommodation. Finally, to organiser Alex Beeler, who bravely let me borrow his own bike and, alongside his wife Franziska and son Leo, was an excellent host.